Rumbling Bald – Cereal Buttress

North Carolina is known for its lack of sport climbing and its abundance of friction climbing.  North Carolina is definitely not known for its crack climbing, yet somehow Rumbling Bald has been blessed with four amazing, moderate splitters all within a 100 feet of each other.

I am referring to Cereal Buttress at Rumbling bald in case you couldn’t pick that up from the basic, but descriptive, title.  Cereal Buttress is home to four absolutely superb moderate crack climbs.  Left to right it goes Fruit Loops (5.7), Granola (5.8), Whiskey for Breakfast (5.10c) and Frosted Flake (5.9). Get it… Cereal Buttress… types of cereal… those FAist are so funny. (sarcasm)

Of the climbs I think Fruit Loops is by far my favorite.  It is a finger to knuckle sized crack that just eats up .75 camalots.  The hands are great and your feet range from small ledges to smears to that awkward foot jam in the crack move.  Fruit Loops is fairly popular but the rock is extremely hard and has not been polished smooth from the traffic.  If you have ever been to Looking Glass and have tried to climb Bloody Crack you’ll know what a pain in the ass it is for the rock to be polished into oblivion.  For the newly minted 5.7 leader this is the perfect line to send.

Just to the right of Fruit Loops is Granola.  Granola is a tricky climb.  The signature moves are tenuously balancing on tiny feet in order to slot your hands under a roof.  Once you get hands, you delicately traverse under the roof which turns into a massive flake that you have to pull around.  After dancing on tiny feet under the roof for a dozen moves, the sick lie back to come around the flake feels incredible.  Your feet are like magnets.  Its like in baseball after warming up with three bats and then hitting a home run because swinging the one bat is effortless.  It is a truly great line that screams trust your feet.

Whiskey for Breakfast is a route that is beyond my ability at the moment but instead of traversing around the roof like in Granola you pull the roof on a tiny finger tip crack.  I’ve seen it done and damn it looks tricky. 

I’ll leave Frosted Flake alone for the moment because it deserves better than a two sentence summary.

3 thoughts on “Rumbling Bald – Cereal Buttress

  1. Pingback: Climbing Projects « eaveskg

  2. Patrizier 4 Kaufen

    hi your website is very interesting. The articles are really interesting, but sorry i don’t like your wordpress theme, maybe you find better wp themes when you search on google for “the best wordpress themes”.

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