Classic NC Climbing – Moore’s Wall

After a two year hiatus from North Carolina rock climbing I finally made it back to climb at Moore’s Wall with my old partner Ben and his ever lovely fiance Tonya.  We ended up climbing the super classic Zoo View (5.7+ 2p) and some 5.6-ish line on Sentinel Buttress.

I’ve climbed Zoo View once before during the early days of my climbing career.  Ben and I had been hitting all of the classic 5.6’s in NC and feeling confident after climbing the Maginot Line (5.7 3p) at Shortoff Mountain we committed to Zoo View.  The thing that establishes Zoo View as a super classic climb is the daunting roof halfway up the second pitch that is home to the most bomber jugs imaginable.  The holds are deep and positive and confidence inspiring to even the most novice climber.  With these church of the solid rock holds you can relax and enjoy looking like a superhero as you pull a good size roof with great exposure.  It felt good to pull that roof again and even better to get to the top with a shit-eating grin on my face and relive the climb with Ben.

I’ve heard a lot of complaints about the rappelling situation at Moore’s Wall.  There are not a lot of rappelling options and the set of bolts that dumps you to the Crow’s Nest drops you down a popular route on Sentinel Buttress.   When we were there we accidentally rappelled over a team.  I am highly embarrassed and it is inexcusable but it happened.  Be very careful about what is below you when rappelling on Moore’s Wall and expect to wait at the top or at the Crow’s Nest for the parties below to clear.  It is just the way it is, but hey we’re in the South where people are friendly and afternoons  are lazy.

My old trip report on Zoo View has more pictures and beta if that’s the sort of thing you’re into.  Also if you have any thoughts on fixing the rappelling situation at Moore’s Wall I’m all ears.

3 thoughts on “Classic NC Climbing – Moore’s Wall

  1. Matt Westlake

    Hi Jon,

    I think my partner Mike and I met you and your crew that day at Moore’s. We did Zoo View as well and I had a story related to the first pitch of Sentinel Buttress and a video I promised to send your friend Tonya. Wish I realized you were the onthesharpend blogger, I would have given you props for your cool work here. I’ve read several of your trip reports, particularly prior to my recent Shortoff trip.

    Safe climbing and hope to run into you again sometime!
    Matt

  2. Wes Calkins

    Hey Jon,
    glad to see your still climbing and still got the website up and running. congratulations on getting married too.
    wes

  3. Jon

    Thanks Wes. I’m glad that while I was back I got to play at Moore’s Wall. Ben told me about your new “secret” spot where Ben has been cranking hard. Have fun over there. I wish that I would have been able to check it out.

    -Jon

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *